scram·ble
[skram-buhl] , -bled, -bling, noun
1. to climb or move quickly using one's hands and feet, as down a rough incline.
My last hike of the season, it's Ranger Don's call, and he wants to scramble. We'll go from the beach at Brown Bay to Waterlemon via the rocky coastline and cliff edges. It's referred to as a scramble because you are climbing over the shore rocks and cliffs rather than hiking. There is no trail, you take what comes. It's exciting, a challenge and no matter what, you just keep going. You don't have much choice anyway, you can bail and take your chances bushwhacking inland, or swim. It's also the only way to see certain rarely seen inaccessible environments.
The hardies were George, me, Friend Steve, Ranger Don, Tom and Su. Our starting point was the Brown Bay trailhead (S). We walked to Brown Bay and braved the now almost completely vine covered and wasp domain of the ruins to see the newly discovered (by Don) and long searched for burial yard. I was really looking forward to this. I'd been looking for these graves for years, I never knew how close I'd been. A really nice cemetery too, neatly laid out with the remains of a wall and gate posts. There were supposed to be 13 graves - great number, huh? We counted about 9. One table tomb had triangles carved in the sides, another had the outline of a person's profile, possibly a quartz cameo silhouette that had been stolen.
Triangle Decoration |
Then the scramble begins. I left the familiarity of the Brown Bay beach and followed the coast line. This was all new to me, both the sceambling and the area. I couldn't wait. Our route would take us from Brown Bay to Threadneedle Point, around Leinster Point to touristy Waterlemon with it's sailboats and snorkelers. Then we would return by the Johnny Horn trail. Unfortunately I'd forgotten my gloves, not necessary but helpful for grabbing volcanic rock.
Take a Load Off |
Lunch |
Su and Tortola in the Background |
This bee hive was a pleasant surprize. Nice set of combs, dudes!
Beehive |
Though we were on the shore the entire time, it wasn't as breezy and cool as you'd think. It's been so hot, polluted with ash, steam and dust with no wind, there was little relief. Luckily the sun wasn't out. The sun would have made it an entirely different trip. There is no shade and the rocks give off heat like standing next to an iron. But it was incredibly beautiful and interesting. There were some dicey places, you did have to focus in spots, but it wasn't strenuous.
George Finds a Quiet Spot |
Tom is always repairing his shoes with duct tape.
There was much to see in the way of trash and I think a lot of our time was spent checking out junk. Too much stuff gets thrown off boats and into the water winding up on land. I didn't like thinking of all the man made stuff that fouls the ocean. There were mostly plastic bottles - water, soda, motor oil, funnels. There were shoes, a book in Swedish (?), a few scrub brushes, nylon rope, floats, a cooler, and a lot of single shoes. Some of these things were new. Don and Steve were finding treasures. Su found a disposable camera in a waterproof case.
Brand New Fender! |
Lotsa Stuff Like This |
Getting giddy from all the cool finds. This one started reminiscences of the Magic Mirror on Romper Room. Romper Bomper Tell me do....Guess you had to be there.
Threadneedle seems to have been a regular landing place for illegals. Steve and I wandered back into the area behind the shore and found shirts, shoes, bags, sweaters. They were well covered in leaves and dirt and it was obvious they'd been there a long time. The govt has cracked down on illegals being dropped off on STJ shores, picking up people who appear lost, Asians and patrolling the beaches. A story goes that some illegals got on the bus. The driver called ahead to the police who were waiting to meet them when the bus pulled into the police station. It's been a long time since I've seen the piles of clothing left in the bush and wandering people who always say they're "on a picnic". I do feel very bad for them.
Waterlemon was just as packed with people as I knew it would be. It really takes away from the serenity of a natural place when there are too many people jammed on top of each other. STJ beaches are getting over crowded. We had to step around and over them to get past.
The Guard House on the Johnny Horn |
I had vowed to never take the Johnny Horn trail again. Ever. It's by far the worst trail on the island. The start of it from Waterlemon has some interest with the guard barracks, the ruined estate house and it's 360deg views, and the hidden Murphy grave. After the intersection of the Brown Bay trail, it becomes a worn, boring series of tribulations in the heat and steep skree. It's so steep, your toes are almost touching your knees. And that's just up. Then you have to go down, toes against your shoes ready to go sliding. Never again.
View From the Small House |
Hanging Heliconia |
Huge Blooming Orchid |
So onward.....the final leg of the trek. It took us 5 ½ hours, but we're back down to Coral Bay. There we stopped at Skinny's for a post hike reward.
The perfect end. And Don said he didn't want to hike anymore because it was all "been there, done that"! Pshaw!
Su, Don,Tom, Steve, George, ElBananakeet |
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