Saturday, 3 March 2012

Caribbean Blue




So the world goes round and round
With all you ever knew
They say the sky high above
Is Caribbean blue.

If every man says all he can,
If every man is true,
Do I believe the sky above
Is Caribbean blue?















I See Dead People

Grave of James Murphy of Annaberg
 There are burial sites all over the island, some are substantial, like the one in Cruz Bay. Some are nothing more than a pile of rocks with a conch placed on it. Some present day family plots are comprised of 5 to 10 persons. Some of these graves are easy to find, some you have to know or get someone to tell you. It's a scavenger hunt into history.









The most interesting to me, the ones that hold the most mystery, are the historical graves hidden in the entangled woods. They weren't always hidden, the earth has taken them back, no one cares, their people have forsaken them, but they are there and shouldn't be forgotten by us. 
There are no slave graves, no marked ones anyway. Slaves were buried in poor soil unsuitable for farming, often without a box, or on the beach which was considered useless land. Not too long ago changing water levels exposed a number of human remains at Cinnamon Bay which turned out to be a slave burial. The remains were re-interred with a ceremony. But there are no known slave graves on St. John, though it's speculated there are some burials under the large Tamarind or Spirit Trees, as bones have been found by the present property owner when gardening. It's believed the spirit of the departed lives in the tree. This is the reason a Tamarind tree is not cut down or removed.



Post-Plantation Era Graves At Cinnamon Bay
Plantation Owner William Henry Marsh at Reef Bay
Danish Burial at Lameshur, Not Much left

Modern Day Cemetery in Cruz Bay

More Danish Graves at Lameshur


In the Cruz Bay Cemetery

A Mix in Cruz Bay



 I always visit Louise at Esperance. There she lies, in a romantic glade, solitary except for one unmarked pile of brick and stone. She's in a peaceful and positive spot behind the ruins of her home. If you stand by her grave you hear the wind, the rustling Tyre palm leaves, the birds, and the sun shines brightly on her white tabletop. Somebody loved Louise to give her a prominent tomb with a marble plaque. Maybe others feel the positive vibes because as yet no one has stolen her plaque to make a table out of it! I just can't imagine taking anything from a grave, not a stone, not a brick, and certainly not the headstone, but people are ...well you know, for lack of a better word ... people! In remembrance, some like minded hikers have left bits of pottery, glass bottles and shell on top of the grave. I think their thought has more meaning because the pieces are from her time. There is never any bad juju at Esperance. It always seems like a good spirit resides there. I've found out that the landowners at the Esperance Estate were good to their slaves, embraced the Moravians and provided medical aid to their workers and others. Later the property was sold to a doctor in 1830 who took care of the islands enslaved laborers until 1835 when the site was abandoned. Maybe their kind hearts, Louise's, the doctor's, are still there. 
I'm making this up, but you never know. Good to see you again, Louise!

Louise Sommer 1861

Heinrich Tonis, Grt Grandson of the Owner Claus At L'Esperance Ruins

Tonis' Engraving in Danish "23 September 1760?"
Anna Hjardemaal at Cinnamon Bay This grave belongs to Anna Margarethe Berner Hjardemaal. It reads "Remember Her With Love 1836". The decorative plaques have been stolen.

The bush used to guard it's secrets well. It was an adventure to search for the family plots but also to come across them by accident in wanderings. it's not easy to explore through the thorny plants and brave the overgrown animal paths to visit these silent friends. They had such hopes, didn't they?  These are just a few of the many "lost" burials on the island. They are my favorites, if it's possible to have an emotional feeling about such a thing. I said "used to guard" because all these sites are now exposed where they used to be hidden. In the last 6 years the trail maintenance volunteers have been clearing many of the more popular or important sites, with some opposition from a select few who feel they own the knowledge of where these places are and no one else should get to share that or enjoy them. We living have a weird interest in gravesites. I believe clearing the sites is a good thing. Louise would like to have people visit her. 







Thursday, 1 March 2012

Happy March!






 A month has gone by. Every year I come down here it's different. There are always new people, new projects, the unexpected. For a small, slow place it's kinetic. Always shifting and readjusting itself as if it was wiggling in an uncomfortable chair. Businesses close, properties sell, people come and go. Lots of "Hey, what happened to _______?" when I first come. We spend the month adjusting too, relearning our life here. We have the familiar and unchanging things  like the friends we've made here, the events we are a part of that become a life. We aren't visitors anymore, but we aren't residents. This isn't HOME.

What doesn't change is this 4 week milestone. It's around this time I feel I've had enough. This is when I miss my family, miss the conveniences of the States, miss my car, miss my "real" life. This is when the day by day heat , mosquitoes, the same weather, the smallness, start to become work and aggravation. I get tired of doing so little, thinking of nothing, and the feelings of needing to accomplish something and move on become prevalent.




In particular I'd like some cold air, air that's fresh and doesn't smell of rotting vegetation and dust. I'd like it to rain all day, I want to hear thunder. I'd like to see snow, I'd like to wear a sweatshirt. I'd like to go to a movie, sit in Barnes & Noble. I want to read magazines! I want to hear news. I want to make decisions. Oh... and be able to go to one grocery store and get what I want and not pay $8.00 for a box of cereal. I'd like to bake cookies. I'd like to stand under a hot shower and let the water just flow over me. I'd like my skin to stop itching, I'd like my hair to not be frizzy on the bottom and flat on top. I want to wear it down. 

The seasons are changing here. The rains have stopped, leaves are falling from the trees to conserve their energy. Any substantial rain won't come until May then again when Hurricane Season starts June-October. Many people take off , restaurants close. The sun is stronger, the temps have risen. Tourist season is nearing its end.

When I get back north there will be aspects of STJ I'll miss. Being here teaches you patience and acceptance. It's good to be calm. No amount of getting annoyed will make things happen quicker or better, or make the thing you want materialize when you want it, if it materializes at all. It's good to live simpler and do with less, it's good to go without. It's good to be polite and greet people with "Hello, how are you?" before getting to business. There are lessons to be learned from an island life. 

So where am I going with this? Just an observation in time, of that nagging 4 week "had enough?" voice. Just stopping to smell the roses. 


Desert Roses



 You CAN have too much of a good thing. STJ is a great place to visit.... but you know how the saying goes.

Random

Stop to Read This First?
I Bet When They're All Together They Confuse Their Predators




Words of Wisdom

Ain't It the Truth?
The Fork in the Road

George Working It All Out

Taking a Break from All This Work

Good to Remember Where You Parked
A Bona Fide Island Sticker Car
Chocolate vs. Environment
Good Luck

How We Get... I Mean ... Get Rid of Trash

Still Thinking About This One
An Odd Towing Situation






Rachel Sent Me This, From George Takai's WebSite



VooDoo is Alive and Well

What Does It Mean? Shhhh.. Say No More... I'll Say No More...




I Miss New England


Artwork by "Paz"

Visiting Su & Tom

Our friends Su and Tom invited us to their house for pre-pizza cocktails. They are from NJ but now live on STJ for 7 months of the year. Their house is high up on a mountainside in Calabash Boom. Tom and Su built the house together, first camping on the site. It's a darling island cottage with just one room that's screened off for sleeping. The rest of the house is open with birds and lizards passing through it. It's a lot like a boat, everything compact and functional. They even made their furniture and Su sewed the fabrics. They're off the grid, getting their electricity from their windmill and storing it in car batteries. They have an outdoor shower and a composting toilet. They have a TV they use to watch DVDs and a ham radio to contact neighbors. The project is ongoing, Tom has plans to extend the kitchen and make room for storage, I think Su would be very happy about that since all their food and belongings are in plastic bins stacked in the main room. 





I am so admiring of people who can do this, and they must be incredibly proud of their accomplishment and ability. It's a labor of love, and a story that is still unfolding. Though it wouldn't be my choice of lifestyle and I don't think I would be happy living that way for a long time,  there is something appealing to the yearn for a simpler life to make this choice and be self sustaining. It's a charming place they have done up with real island style.

Love the Colors!

Down Island View





Here are two movies of the road down from Su and Tom's. 

 


 

Thanks Su for the great photos!

Swimming with Dolphins

I didn't see these dolphins, my friend Athena emailed me these photos. They were taken by her friend and neighbor, Ginny, who went swimming with them in the bay near where they live.Very cool!