It's the end of the road, days are counting down, as much as I'm eager to go home, leaving is bittersweet.
Today the air just didn't move. There was silence. The bubbles on my arm have turned to angry, crispy red welts. Scratches and cactus jabs have left scabs on my legs, darkened scars. My feet were tired, my face was blotchy. Energy is low. There is only one answer. Time for some serious medicine - time for the clear warm waters of ...........
the North Shore.
I was heading off alone until George said he'd finished the work he'd been doing - a press release and the blurb
requested from another website, and he was free to come too. Alone would have been interesting, together just adds another dimension.
To be serious about playing tourist on the North Shore you should count on the Full
Monty. That means combining the beach trip with a stop at the Caneel Resort,
have a mucho inflated frosty drink at their beach bar (they have a blender in a sound proof box so as not to be disturbing when the ice is crushed - SSSHHH!) and watch the people, maybe do
lunch, use their ACed bathroom with the thick paper towels, wash off in the outdoor shower. You could really push the limit by claiming a comfy beachfront teak chair and staying to watch the sun set over STT, but - another day. We got distracted at Solomon and winged it in town instead.
Rather than do the entire trek from Cruz Bay, which is hot and long (but don't get me wrong, it's worth doing), we cheated a little and parked at the trailhead for the Lind Pt spur. There we ran into a band of donkeys teasing a couple dogs. The dogs were seriously snarling and hurling themselves at the fence, but the donkeys were curious at these crazy animals and seemed to be chuckling. I took a movie, which is below, but I stopped the camera before the finale - let's just say the barking and chuckling got one of them pretty randy. We're a family show here!
The trail to Solomon is an old one well used by hundreds of feet for generations, which is something to think about as you walk it. It's the pre-car route from Cruz Bay into the hills along the North Shore, back when people walked or took a donkey. The network of trails is never-ending, challenging and lots of fun. Down side is it can be hot and rocky. There are lots of turns and spurs to get lost on, it's easy to get turned around. Many thanks to Bob Garrison for his signs! I always feel hiking to the beach makes being there sweeter. The hike is part of the experience and it makes the day into more of a commune with nature than if you just parked and lugged your stuff from the beachside lot.
Solomon used to be secluded. Few knew it was there, few wanted to bother walking there. It had a mystique of off limits about it. There were so few people it was the unofficial nude beach. People in the know shared a sense of serenity, so it was subdued and quiet, private and respectful. Those days are gone. Between the hikers with their Westin resort blue and white striped towels, the resort guests who swim over from Honeymoon (another ruined place) and the day trippers on sailboats, it's become just another Park beach. Crowded and noisy.
But that didn't affect the water and the sand. Oh my! The clearest, bluest water. The softest, finest white sand. I couldn't wait to dive in, to feel the water take me in its arms, to feel the sand under my feet... ARGH! Stop with the romance novel verbage!
It's one of those places that just have that aura of energy and light. Who knows why some places exude a good feeling and others don't? It's the healing powers of Solomon.
Solomon! |
We found the perfect spot in the shade set back from the scattered groups of people. This is THE picture postcard
beach. Palm trees bending over the sand, turquoise water, small waves, a slightly rocky
outcropping, views of the British VIs and small cays. Travel brochure stuff.
George is actually
sitting in a chair. I'm always lazy and don't hike with a chair but
always wish I had. Ok, that's it. No more sand on the towel, no more leaning on elbows to read, I'm taking the chair.
Snack was some nuts, fruit chews and a piece of coconut bar. The bar was too sweet and heavy so I tossed it in the woods. A couple mongooses came up and took it. It's their lucky day too.
At Sea Level |
View From My Towel |
I'd stopped to pick up an underwater camera but they didn't have a digital. I wonder if those plastic casings work? There wasn't much in the water, some large silvery fish I think are called Jacks, a Needlefish, also called a Gar. Otherwise it was clear and sparkling. Good enough for me! I just hung in the water, breathing, watching, closing my eyes so the waves floated me. No sounds. This is what snorkel masks were really made for, this sort of embryonic floating. If you float long enough stuff swims by. You are just jetsam. Or is it flotsam?
The Ghost Crab is a fine sand creature you find on these particular beaches. They dig a hole by collecting the sand, holding it in their claw, then walking a short distance away from the hole they give a jerk and hurl it with all their might, like shot put thrower. If you sit very still they will go about their architectural business and ignore you.
Time went too fast, George was reading, I was watching the view, it was soon almost 1.00. The beach was getting busy. Where does everyone come from? Why aren't these kids in school? We packed up and hiked back, uphill, steamy and rocky, but worth every step.
This is the Park sign at the trailhead. Time went too fast, George was reading, I was watching the view, it was soon almost 1.00. The beach was getting busy. Where does everyone come from? Why aren't these kids in school? We packed up and hiked back, uphill, steamy and rocky, but worth every step.
Is this a postcard moment or what?
Lunch was at the Deli Ghotto at Mongoose. They have AC , which we needed as a respite. We shared a sandwich and got a container of tuna fish ( not Gar or Jack ) and their cucumber salad , to last us a couple days . No sense is buying much food this week. Drifting along in a haze of Solomon therapy. YAWN. It never disappoints.
I Swear I was NOT Sleeping in the Hammock |
Solomon Therapy got George's creative man powers going. He built some spice racks and bug proof tea jars for the cabinet. Go George! The jars are screwed to the bottom of the shelf by their lids, twist the jar to get your now bug protected teabags!
Short snippet - nothing like a rowdy gang of donkeys to liven up the neighborhood.
link to movie:
http://youtu.be/E80d5hYcm00
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