Mulling on ST.TRAUMA

We had to go to St Thomas to return the rental car. The rental companies won't let you rent for more than 30 days at a time so we have to start a new contract with a new reservation. It's not guaranteed but we can usually keep the same car. They're usually happy with this because it means they don't have to work to clean it up. The old contract has to be closed out and a new one executed, in person. That means taking the ferry to Red Hook and driving back to the airport.

Caribbean Blue on the Ferry

The rental agent tried to sell us the idea of buying a car instead of renting, like we haven't thought of this. The cost of having a car here far outweighs the cost of renting: in annoyance, time, insurance and heartache. 

For example, to register a car here you have to get a Virgin Islands driver’s license. The VI driver’s license is expensive and frustrating . There is no simple transfer of your stateside license. Where's the profit in that? First you go to the driver’s license office on STT and get the forms (sorry, we're out of them). Then you have to schedule a physical at the clinic. Then you have to get two passport photos. Then you have to take the written test. After passing the written test (you passed, right?) , you have to pay for the new license. Now you're all set. Not getting off that easily! The camera is broken. Can they use one of the two pictures you already gave them? No sorry, they are attached to your application. Come back tomorrow, the camera will be fixed. Three weeks later, the camera is fixed . 

Plus now they tell you you have to surrender your State license. You heard me, give it up. Like THAT'S gonna happen! I know someone who applied for a replacement state license due to loss, then had two, one he could "surrender". This whole car thing can force you into a life of crime!

Add to that the risk of leaving your car on STJ when you leave. You have to take it apart and store the pieces because there will be nothing left of it. A car sitting alone is a target to be stripped.  

Since we have to do this contract renewal, we decided to get in some household shopping. STT is where you go to get STUFF. You can get Duty Free cool stuff in town or basic stuff. Today it's the basics.

When shopping here, if you see it, and need it, buy it. It probably won't be there when you want it. If you really need it/use it, buy two. If you think you may need it, buy one. This was very helpful since K-Mart is THE retailer on the island. It is a different way of life and you have to get used to the fact that regardless of the cost, you can't buy something that isn't available. When you are used to competition and selection you have to adjust to getting things when you can, or going without. I haven't seen Shredded Wheat in 3 weeks. Would I lie to you?

The internet has been a wonderful modern marvel here. Most places will ship (for a price) to STJ. Halleluyah! It helps to have friends. George's daughter Megan sends us stuff. My favorite yarn store in Gloucester mailed me some knitting needles. Amazon for books and DVDs.

But not Williams Sonoma. Someone get me a decent collander! 

The Pitted, Fraying, Stained Plastic Collander

These days STT is like Anyplace, USA. It has KMart, a movie theater, Cost-U-Less, Office Max, McDonald's, KFC, traffic lights. My favorite is "Food Center". Like they couldn't think of a name? 

STT has lots of people. It's like a regular city except with palm trees and iguana roadkill. I was driving along at 25mph and getting honked at. On STT it's time to rev up your island mode a notch. 

George stayed in the car to guard our Home Depot purchase - plastic storage bins, pot saucers, hardware cloth, lidded trash can. Hear me, do not leave your stuff unattended in the car. Not even a pen. Attach everything securely to yourself at all times. I once put my wallet down at the cashier to swipe a credit card. It was gone before I could say "RUM".  

I am now let loose alone in KMart. This is a store I might go to once a year if pressured, I am a shopping snob. Today I was so starved for THINGS I was eying the Jaclyn Smith elastic waist floral pants in coral with lace trim. Just keep moving. Don't do anything you will regret.

STT is not like STJ. Each US Virgin Island has it's own personality and it's own pace. It has developed in it's own way, and that development, as a community and financially, has dictated it's presence. STT is edgier than STJ or STX, it's more like any city. Once you're off the beach you could be anywhere. Unlike STJ where you are never out of sight of the blue water, you rarely get a peek at it on STT.  I remember when STT used to be more like STJ , unspoiled, slower.

STT has more diversity than STJ, the cost of living is less , the West Indians own their island. On STJ the tourists and rich white people "own" the island, or it's felt they do. This causes friction among the community structure. OK, it causes racism. Racism exists here on many levels. On STT you see black and white children playing together, going to school together, adults working and hanging around, eating together, intermarrying, and living next door to each other. As far I'm concerned, that is progress. Now don’t get me wrong: it’s not a rainbow colony and everyone’s not holding hands and singing folk songs, but it makes for a better community.

Someone will undoubtedly come down on me for this but, in my opinion, racism in the USVI is mostly directed at whites by blacks. The racism can be subtle and covert so you even wonder if it happened or as shocking as the three black men who had an argument with and murdered a white teenager in town sparking an outrage of racist accusations. It's unspoken but there. A white person might get the stale bread at the sandwich place, be ignored by someone in favor of others, or just a scowl. Is this racism or disapproval? Is it the conditioning within their culture that generations have been told the white man stole their island? I have heard the West Indian folks say laughingly " What kind of white sh*t is that?"  A white friend of ours told us a story that he went into a store and a black man pointed at him and told his little daughter "That's an invader." Recently there was outrage over the use of the 'N' word being heard frequently on STJ. Also, a common statement heard these days is, "We have a white senator now." 

At least I can say that for the most part the overt angry black islanders are mostly youth,  and I have found most people I encounter are not afflicted. Politeness and consideration go a long way and it's always a solid rule to follow, and another island lesson. I have felt intimidated, like I had to walk on eggshells. Is that MY conditioning? Unfortunately this angry minority is so loud that the bad incidents are what are remembered and hold significant influence.

To get on my soapbox, I hate this whole thing that just undermines the islands and creates an ugliness in paradise. Like this is a unique white vs. black event? What about the horrendous exploitation of blacks by blacks occurring today in Africa? What about the blacks tribes in Africa who captured blacks of competing tribes and sold them to anyone who cared to purchase them -- Europeans, Americans, South Americans? What about black on black drive-by shootings in every major American city? No race on this planet is innocent.
 

The many social problems occurring in the VI today are not the fault of the incoming white people. White people pour tourist dollars into island economy. Tourists GOOD! Everyone who lives here can have a piece of that, but not if you bite the hand that feeds you by making tourists uncomfortable and shooting them on golf courses like they did on STX 30 years ago. Their island tourist industry is just recovering, so much for revolution through violence. The VI govt needs to get their house in order and do right by the VI people. Island people need to get educated and teach values for success to their children.

Anyway, enough downer stuff. Going to STT is always tiring and a change from STJ.  It rips you away from STJ's peaceful fantasy lamb and into the jaws of the restless and skittish lion. Everyone seems happy enough on STT, with their shiny cars, rap music and bling, though maybe not with me. I always come back dirty, thirsty, feeling like I've fought a war with an imaginary enemy perhaps of my own making and have had to mull away the day way too much, all for KMart. 

It's a relief to be back.